Setup Instruction
Toolset Download Link
» What to prepare
A Main PC with an HDMI port, capable of outputting the required resolution and refresh rate.
A Second PC with an HDMI port, capable of outputting the required resolution and refresh rate.
3 HDMI cables, capable of outputting the required resolution and refresh rate.
Before diving into the official installation tutorial, there are some essential information that you need to be aware of.
The resolution inputted in the fuser must be same. (The refresh rate can be different.)
For example, if the main PC inputs 1080p 240Hz and the second PC inputs 1080p 60Hz, the output result will cause the ESP rendering overlay to run at only 60fps. As a result, the ESP rendering overlay will appear laggy.
» Setup Instruction
① Get EDID File
The board doesn't light up after being plugged in
Plug In
Use an HDMI cable to connect the Main PC and the Main Monitor.
Right Click on your desktop and click "Display Settings".
Change to your desired resolution. For example, I want 1080p.
Change to your desired refresh rate. For example, I want 240hz.
Extracting .bin (EDID File).
All actions here to be done on Main PC !!!
Download Monitor Asset Manager Setup.EXE HERE and save it wherever you'd like.
Run the Monitor Asset Manager Setup.EXE and go through the install
If it doesn't auto-launch after install then search for "Moninfo" in your Windows Search Bar and run it as administrator
Make sure "Real-time" is selected.
Click "File" and then "Save as..."
Save wherever you want named whatever you want. Desktop is usually easiest.
Inject EDID into Fuser
Download Monitor Asset Manager Setup.EXE HERE and save it wherever you'd like.
Run the Monitor Asset Manager Setup.EXE and go through the install
If it doesn't auto-launch after install then search for "Moninfo" in your Windows Search Bar and run it as administrator
Make sure "Real-time" is selected.
Click "File" and then "Save as..."
Save wherever you want named whatever you want. Desktop is usually easiest.
➁ Inject EDID into Fuser
Setup Fuser
You should see the first light "D1" turn on (if it doesn't turn on press the big red power button)
Connect data cable & Driver Install
All actions here are complete on Main PC !!!
Grab your USB-C to USB-A cable.
Plug in USB-C end to your fuser; USB-A end into your Main PC
Search "Device Manager" in your windows search bar and open it.
It should looks like this under "Ports (COM & LPT)". If it does, skip and goto Step 3.
If it doesn't and show as "USB Serial", complete "Driver Install":
Install Driver
Download the CH340 driver zip HERE and save it wherever you'd like.
Extract the folder and open the extracted folder
Right click the "CH341SER.EXE" and click "Run as administrator".
Click "INSTALL" and then "OK"
Now go back to "Device Manager" and you should see your fuser show up under Ports (COM & LPT)
Take note of the COM port it's on. For example, mine's on COM3 (if you have multiple COM ports showing, just unplug your fuser and see which one dissapears, then re-plug it in)
➂ Inject EDID
Download the EDID program HERE
Select the correct COM port.
Select your desired resolution. For example, I want 1920x1080.
Click that button (it's the automatic easier injection).
Click that button to browse your files and select the .bin you saved earlier.
Click that button to inject.
You'll see some random characters pop up, that's fine. Close the dialog boxes and you can close all previously used applications and windows
Unplug your USB-C to USB-A cable from the Main PC.
» Configuration
➀ Configure on Operating System
On both PC's: - Like we did before, navigate to "Display settings" and change your resolution / refresh rate to the same desired value (If you see one PC can be set to 240hz and the other PC can only be set to 239.97hz, don't worry.)
➁ Configure Fuser
There are 3 Ports on the fuser. Grab your 3 HDMI cables and plug them in as follows:
[HDMI] goes to the main monitor.
[HDMI1] goes to main PC.
[HDMI2] goes to second PC.
Once everything is plugged in, all lights should be on.
Meaning of each indicators
D1 = Power indicator. If the light is on it has power
D2 = Fusing/Overlay status. If the light is on it means the fuser is overlaying the second PC's output
H2 = Second PC input status. If the light is on then it means the fuser is getting a signal from the second PC.
H1 = Main PC input status. If the light is on then it means the fuser is getting a signal from the main PC.
Each button has a function:
K1 = Press it once: cycle through resolutions. It should default on 1080p. Press the button to cycle until you reach your desired resolution. Press and hold: Show current input information like resolution and refresh rate.
K2 = Increase the fusing strength/tolerance. The higher it goes, the more of the gray it will delete during fusing.
K3 = Resets the fusing strength/tolerance to default. This is what I use. It works nicely for every cheat I've tried.
K4 = Toggle fusing/overlay.
» Run your DMA Cheats
This is pretty straightforward. I just press K4 turn off overlay, then when you're ready to cheat press K4 again to access your second PC's display.
Run your cheat
Find "Fuser Mode" or similar in your cheats menu and enable it (some automatically have it enabled)
» NOTES
➀ Multiple Monitors
If you want, you can plug in multiple monitors to your second PC. For the easiest usage:
Make sure your main display is the fuser
Make sure the display mode is "Extended"
Then when you cheat, just make sure you drag your fuser ESP window to your fuser
➁ Reset the Fuser
If you want to reset the fuser back to factory setting (you might do this if your EDID isn't working and you've exhausted all options), just plug the fuser back in via the USB-C to USB-A cable and do this:
Select the correct COM port.
Select the desired resolution.
Click the third button.
All actions here to be done on Main PC !!!
Grab your USB-C to USB-A cable.
Plug in USB-C end to your fuser; USB-A end into your Main PC.
Search "Device Manager" in your windows search bar and open it
It should looks like this under "Ports (COM & LPT)". If it does, skip and goto Step 3
If it doesn't and show as "USB Serial", complete "Driver Install":
Driver Installation
Download the CH340 driver zip HERE and save it wherever you'd like.
Extract the folder and open the extracted folder
Right click the "CH341SER.EXE" and click "Run as administrator"
Click "INSTALL" and then "OK"
Now go back to "Device Manager" and you should see your fuser show up under Ports (COM & LPT)
Take note of the COM port it's on. For example, mine's on COM3 (if you have multiple COM ports showing, just unplug your fuser and see which one dissapears, then re-plug it in)
Inject EDID
Download the EDID program HERE
Save it wherever you'd like and right click it and click "Run as administrator"
Select the correct COM port.
Select your desired resolution. For example, I want 1920x1080.
Click that button (it's the automatic easier injection).
Click that button to browse your files and select the .bin you saved earlier.
Click that button to inject.
You'll see some random characters pop up, that's fine. Close the dialog boxes and you can close all previously used applications and windows
Unplug your USB-C to USB-A cable from the Main PC.
» Configuration
Configure Fuser
There are 3 Ports on the fuser. Grab your 3 HDMI cables and plug them in as follows:
[HDMI] goes to the main monitor.
[HDMI1] goes to main PC.
[HDMI2] goes to second PC.
Once everything is plugged in, all lights should be on.
Meaning of each indicators
D1 = Power indicator. If the light is on it has power
D2 = Fusing/Overlay status. If the light is on it means the fuser is overlaying the second PC's output
H2 = Second PC input status. If the light is on then it means the fuser is getting a signal from the second PC.
H1 = Main PC input status. If the light is on then it means the fuser is getting a signal from the main PC.
Each button has a function:
K1 = Press it once: cycle through resolutions. It should default on 1080p. Press the button to cycle until you reach your desired resolution. Press and hold: Show current input information like resolution and refresh rate.
K2 = Increase the fusing strength/tolerance. The higher it goes, the more of the gray it will delete during fusing.
K3 = Resets the fusing strength/tolerance to default. This is what I use. It works nicely for every cheat I've tried.
K4 = Toggle fusing/overlay
Configure on Operating System
On both PC's: - Like we did before, navigate to "Display settings" and change your resolution / refresh rate to the same desired value (If you see one PC can be set to 240hz and the other PC can only be set to 239.97hz, don't worry.)
» Run your DMA Cheats
This is pretty straightforward. I just press K4 turn off overlay, then when you're ready to cheat press K4 again to access your second PC's display.
Run your cheat
Find "Fuser Mode" or similar in your cheats menu and enable it (some automatically have it enabled)
» NOTES:
Multiple Monitors
If you want, you can plug in multiple monitors to your second PC. For the easiest usage:
Make sure your main display is the fuser
Make sure the display mode is "Extended"
Then when you cheat, just make sure you drag your fuser ESP window to your fuser
Reset the Fuser
If you want to reset the fuser back to factory setting (you might do this if your EDID isn't working and you've exhausted all options), just plug the fuser back in via the USB-C to USB-A cable and do this:
Select the correct COM port.
Select the desired resolution.
Click the third button.
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